Survey Of Energy Efficient Building Methods
Clear Wall R-Values
Clear-wall R-Value calculations do not take into consideration the effects of additional construction like windows, doors, exterior wall corners and how the roof joins the walls. When factored in, R-Values typically drop from those stated as Clear-wall R-Values. Clear-wall R-Values and their thermal performance are determined by testing a solid wall (complete with its insulation system), usually a section 8 ft. x 8 ft., with no openings for doors and windows.
Whole Wall R-Values
Clearly more accurate is the Whole-wall R-Value rating system. In this system, not only is the thermal performance of the wall tested, so is the typical envelope interface details. These include wall-to-wall corners, wall-to-roof, wall-to-floor, wall-to-doors and wall-to-window connections. Why include these details? Because energy efficiency is lost at these points of construction and including these elements provides a more accurate R-Value rating system. (Although taking the time to tape these joints during the construction helps reduce some of hte heat loss significantly.)
Thermal Mass
To add to the confusion we have to consider thermal mass, perhaps the most confusing energy issue facing engineers, contractors and homebuyers today. Thermal mass ratings are determined by measuring the building materials/wall unit energy efficiency in conjunction with other layers of materials attached to the wall, i.e.; particle boards, drywall, stucco. The measurement of the energy performance of a "stated R-value" material, combined with the layering of other materials to enhance the energy value, is often referred to as "mass-enhanced R-value." There are a number of combinations of materials used in construction and their thermal mass and R-value efficiencies vary depending on how they are used in the region of the country (climate considerations). How efficient a system is and how much energy consumption is reduced depends on how fast heat transfers through materials, how well materials hold the heat and the fluctuation of outside temperature. Attention to details like the windows you select, like low e-thermal, dual pane windows that are tinted, is just as important as the R-value in the walls. In fact, much heat loss or gain, up to 48%, is through windows, not walls!
http://www.masonryforlife.com/Energy.htm
Additionally, according to the US Department of Energy, for energy efficiency, your home should be properly insulated from the roof down to its foundation. This includes the following areas:
Attic spaces
Attic access doors to unfinished attics
Knee walls in finished attics
Ducts in unconditioned spaces
Cathedral ceilings
Exterior walls
Floors above unheated garages
Foundations
Basements
Crawl spaces
Slab-on-grade floors.
Let us look at some of the current choices in construction of today ...
Block Masonry and Poured-Concrete for residential construction There are numerous insulation methods and new insulated block systems on the market with varying R-values. Standard 8" hollow block's R-value is 1.75, which by itself, is not enough R-value to achieve energy efficiency. The addition of outside insulation, integral insulation or interior insulation can be added to standard block to make it very energy efficient. There are several ways to incorporate foam insulationsuch as polystyrene, polyisocyanurate or polyiso, and polyurethaneinto concrete blocks. The hollow cores of concrete blocks can be filled by pouring and/or injecting loose foam beads or liquid foam. Some manufacturers make concrete blocks that accommodate rigid foam inserts.
Stud Wall Construction using wood or metal studs ... The exterior wall constitutes a large part of the total insulated package. In exterior walls, a 2x6 wall offers upto 5.5" of insulation. With the use of 2x6 studs spaced a 24" c/c , not only is the depth of the wall cavity increased but the width of the cavity is also increased. Studs conduct more heat than the insulation since it extends through the wall cavity and has a smaller R-value. So, in 2x6 construction there are fewer studs in the exterior wall and less heat is conducted through the wall. The following website has a good table describing R-Values of various stud-construction methods http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/99/991110.html
Insulating Concrete Form (ICF) Construction ICF uses reinforced concrete as structure and where insulation does double duty also as permanent stay-in-place formwork for concrete during placement is a very attractive choice for walls of energy efficient buildings. The insulating material, typically expanded polystyrene (EPS) affords a variety of state-of-the-art exterior finishes, such as siding, brick, cultured stone, stucco, and so on. Constructed from expanded polystyrene and stacked like building blocks to form the exterior walls of a home, the forms are reinforced with steel and filled with concrete. The forms interlock and fasten one to the other to provide seamless "foundation to rafter" fully insulated, reinforced concrete walls. Window and door openings of any size are possible. Because of the triple insulative nature of these forms, ICFs are extremely energy efficient. The R-value of the insulation, coupled with the thermal mass of the concrete, and the elimination of air leakage, makes for an R-40 energy rating or higher.
Structural Insulated Panels (SIP) SIPsconsist of two outer skins and an inner insulation core. Most structural panels today use either plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) as skins. OSB is most commoly used because it is available in large size upto 12 ft by 36 ft. Expanded polystyrene (EPS) is the most commonly used insulation core material. Extruded polystyrene (XPS) commonly known as styrofoam, polyurethane foam and isocyanurate are also used as the inner core but predominantly EPS is the used as the inner core. As you can see in the table below, EPS has an R-value of 5.00 per inch. Many SIP manufacturers allow you to select the thickness of the panels for your home ranging from 4" to 12". SIPs are becoming increasingly common in modular home building as they have shown extreme energy efficiency, are much stronger than wood-framed homes and the outer envelope can often be constructed in under one week! If you are a contractor or engineer who wants more information about SIP's see http://www.sipweb.com/monitor/bc_main.asp. Some manufacturers choose to use polyurethane and isocyanurate as the insulating material. Aged polyurethane and isocyanurate SIPs have a nominal R-value of around R-6 to R-7 per inch (2.5 cm) of thickness. Polyurethane/isocyanurate panels, although more expensive, are more fire and water vapor-diffusion resistant than EPS, and insulates some 30% to 40% better than EPS or XPS, per given thickness.
Precast Concrete Wall Construction ... Precast concrete walls use use high-strength concrete, typically 5,000 psi with reinforcing steel and fibers. Priced in the $55 - $65 range per linear foot of wall, precast systems are competitive with other foundation walls, particularly when costs are examined as an assembly that includes footings and sub-slab drainage. The precast concrete walls have full-length insulation built in to increase energy efficiency. They are smart, with convenient features like built-in accesses for wiring and treated wood nailers for drywall. The walls have a built in footing to be placed on a base of stone. The average R-Rating I found doing a search was about 12.5.
Overall, there are a lot of choices you have to make...Do you want to spend more money at the front end to make an energy efficient home, or foot the increasing power bills. Many of the new construction methods dramatically improve the speed at which homes can be built. Discuss these options with your contractor and or engineer to find out what is best for your specific purpose and area where you live.
At the following website, you will find a table of the typical R-Values for construction materials. http://www.coloradoenergy.org/procorner/stuff/r-values.htm
Dr. Dawn-Elise Snipes received her PhD in Counseling and Education from the University of Florida. She has worked for 10 years in community mental health. Currently she runs a small internet-based church http://www.stlukesfamilychurch.info and two online continuing education sites http://www.allceus.com and http://www.engineeringceus.comKorney Blog60380
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How To Reduce Your Heating Bills This Winter / Energy Conservation Begins at Home
Imagine leaving a window open all winter long -- the heat loss, cold drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding attic stair, a whole house fan or AC Return, a fireplace or a clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home every day.
These often overlooked sources of heat loss and air leakage can cause heat to pour out and the cold outside air to rush in -- costing you higher heating bills.
Air leaks are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home. Air leaks occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Most homeowners are well aware of the benefits caulk and weatherstripping provide to minimize heat loss and cold drafts.
But what can you do about the four largest “holes” in your home -- the folding attic stair, the whole house fan or AC return, the fireplace, and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.
Attic Stairs
When attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only a thin, unsealed, sheet of plywood.
Your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors. In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood.
Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the door. Try this yourself: at night, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door -- do you see any light coming through? These are gaps add up to a large opening where your heated/cooled air leaks out 24 hours a day. This is like leaving a window open all year round.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an attic stair cover. An attic stair cover provides an air seal, reducing the air leaks. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling.
Whole House Fans and AC Returns
Much like attic stairs above, when whole house fans are installed, a large hole (up to 16 square feet or larger) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only leaky ceiling shutter between the house and the outdoors.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a whole house fan cover. Installed from the attic side, the whole house fan cover is invisible. Cover the fan to reduce heating and air-conditioning loss, remove it when use of the fan is desired.
If attic access is inconvenient, or for AC returns, a ceiling shutter cover is another option for reducing heat loss through the ceiling shutter and AC return. Made from R-8, textured, thin, white flexible insulation, and installed from the house side over the ceiling shutter with Velcro, a whole house fan shutter cover is easily installed and removed.
Fireplaces
Sixty-five percent, or approximately 100 million homes, in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home especially during the winter home-heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers.
Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing. One research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating-energy consumption by 30 percent.
A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter due to the air leakage and wasted energy caused by fireplaces.
Why does a home with a fireplace have higher heating bills? Hot air rises. Your heated air leaks out any exit it can find, and when warm heated air is drawn out of your home, cold outside air is drawn in to make up for it. The fireplace is like a giant straw sucking the heated air from your house.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a fireplace draftstopper. Available from Battic Door, a company known for their energy conservation products, a fireplace draftstopper is an inflatable pillow that seals the damper, eliminating any air leaks. The pillow is removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after.
Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts
In many homes, the room with the clothes dryer is the coldest room in the house. Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold air leaks in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house.
Dryer vents use a sheet-metal flapper to try to reduce this air leakage. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the air leakage. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal. This will reduce unwanted air infiltration, and keep out pests, bees and rodents as well. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint and moisture to escape.
If your home has a folding attic stair, a whole house fan, an AC return, a fireplace, and/or a clothes dryer, you can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.
Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover, an attic access door, and is the U.S. distributor of the fireplace draftstopper. To learn more visit www.batticdoor.com
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